List of marine aquarium fish species

The following list of marine aquarium fish species commonly available in the aquarium trade is not a completely comprehensive list; certain rare specimens may sometimes be available commercially yet not be listed here. A brief section on each, with a link to the page about the particular species is provided along with references for further information.

Angelfish (Large) = Click Image to See More

These big beauties are considered to be quite hardy, but because of their size may present a significant challenge to the potential keeper. They need huge aquariums, up to 180 gallons to house one for its entire lifespan.^[1] Two angels might be kept in the same aquarium provided it is a large aquarium, they are properly acclimated as juveniles, and they are have very different colouring and body shape.^[2] However, because all Angelfish have essentially the same diet, mixing them is a feat that should be left to only advanced keepers. None are reef safe, and a potential owner should be aware that they need to have plenty of vegetable matter in their diet. They undergo major changes in colouration while maturing, and unless specified given descriptions are for adult specimens.^[3][4][5]

Although Dwarf Angelfish are smaller and generally more manageable than their larger counterparts, they still have some specific care requirements. They are omnivores, but plenty of vegetable matter, preferably in the form of macroalgae, should be provided for their grazing pleasure.^[20] Their suitability for reef tanks is hotly debated,^[2] so add at your own risk. Specimens that have been successfully maintained in reef aquaria include the Flame and Coral Beauty angels. However, for obvious reasons they should not be put into tanks with expensive decorative macroalgae.^[21][22]

Although Anthias resemble damsels in shape and size, the two should never be confused. Where damsels are the goats of the Saltwater world, Anthias (also called “Fairy Basslets in) are finicky and many starve to death in captivity. In the wild, they eat zooplankton, and will not accept anything but in the aquarium. They also need to be fed nearly constantly, three times a day at least. The best way to ensure the health and longevity of an Anthias is to attach a refugium where you can grow copepods to “drip” into the display tank. Unlike many other saltwater aquarium inhabitants, they can be kept in groups.^[35]

Image	Description
Bartlett’s anthias		Pseudanthias bartlettorum	Yes	Moderate	Back and face light yellow, underside pink with a swallowtail-shaped caudal fin.	9 cm (3.5 in)
Bicolor anthias		Pseudanthias bicolor	Yes	Difficult	Similarly shaped and coloured to Bartlett’s Anthias, but with a slightly more rounded back.	13 cm (5.1 in)
Cooper’s anthias		Pseudanthias cooperi	Yes	Difficult	Orange back and finnage with white patch below the mouth running d own toward the anal fin with pink sides.	14 cm (5.5 in)
Diadem anthias		Pseudanthias parvirostris	Yes	Difficult	Pink fish with yellow streak on top of head running along the lateral line. Caudal fin is red with yellow tips.	7 cm (2.8 in)
Orangehead anthias		Pseudanthias heemstrai	Yes	Difficult	Pink underside with orange back and mask, dark red splotch on caudal fin, along with iridescent blue anal and pelvic fins.	13 cm (5.1 in)
Redbar anthias		Pseudanthias rubrizonatus	Yes	Difficult	Tannish-pink with a single vertical red stripe and a dorsal fin with the skin between the rays pulled back like on a lionfish.	12 cm (4.7 in)
Lyretail anthias, Sea Goldie		Pseudanthias squamipinnis	Yes	Difficult	Females are orange with lyre-shaped caudal fin. Males are fuchsia with red markings on fins	15 cm (5.9 in)
Squareback anthias		Pseudanthias pleurotaenia	Yes	Difficult	Red back and pink underside with distinctive blue square shaped marking and blue fins.	20 cm (7.9 in)
Stocky anthias		Pseudanthias hypselosoma	Yes	Difficult	Orange back with cream colored underside. As its name suggests, slightly stockier than other Anthias.	19 cm (7.5 in)
Threadfin anthias		Pseudanthias huchtii	Yes	Difficult	Olive green with black caudal fin and red stripe running from the eye to the pectoral fin.	12 cm (4.7 in)

In this exceedingly large group of fish, few are considered proper aquarium inhabitants, for various reasons including diet and size. Basses vary greatly from species to species, and do appropriate research before purchasing a specimen. Many unsuspecting hobbyists bring home cute little specimens of popular aquarium fish such as the lyretail grouper, only to realize several months later that they do not have the resources to care for a meter-long that may cost hundreds of dollars a month to feed.^{[36][37][38][39][40]}

Image	Description
African grouper		Cephalopholis taeniops	No	Easy		69 cm (27.2 in)
Vermillion seabass		Cephalopholis miniata				40 cm (15.7 in)
Blacktip grouper		Epinephelus fasciatus	No	easy	The tips of the spines of the dorsal fin are black, and it may have a dark red cap above the eyes. There is a variant with a uniformly pale body except for the frontal part.	40 cm (15 .7 in)
Blue and Yellow grouper		Epinephelus flavocaeruleus	No	Moderate		90.0 cm (35.4 in)
Blue dot grouper		Cephalopholis argus	No	Moderate	Deep black to tan fish with blue spots throughout.	50 cm (19.7 in)
Blue line grouper		Cephalopholis formosa	No	Moderate	Dark tan with horizontal blue stripes that are not particularly straight. The caudal fin has more of these stripes, and they radiate from the base of the fin out to the tips.	34 cm (13.4 in)
Chalk bass		Serranus tortugarum	Yes	Easy to Moderate	Blue iridescent body with distinctive black topside that is interrupted by small vertical blue stripes.	8 cm (3.1 in)
Coney grouper		Cephalopholis fulva	No	Moderate		41 cm (16.1 in)
Golden grouper		Mycteroperca rosacea	No	Moderate		86 cm (33.9 in)
Golden stripe soapfish		Grammistes sexlineatus	No	Moderate	Chocolate brown with light yellow horizontal stripes. Similar in patterning to C. argus (with exception to the coloration).	30 cm (11.8 in)
Harlequin bass		Serranus tigrinus	Yes	Easy to Moderate	Very striking black and white checkerboard pattern all over, with very long tapering nose.	29 cm (11.4 in)
Leaflip grouper		Pogonoperca punctata	No	Moderate	Sports a large, hinged mouth and is tan with little spots. Has brown triangle shaped markings down the spine.	35 cm (13.8 in)
Marine beta		Calloplesiops altivelis	Yes	Easy		15 cm (5.9 in)[41][42]
Miniatus grouper or Vermillion seabass		Cephalopholis miniatus	No	Moderate	Orange to red with large blue spots throughout.	45 cm (17.7 in)
Orange spot grouper		Cephalopholis panamensis	No	Easy		30 cm (11.8 in)
Panther grouper		Cromileptes altivelis	No	Difficult	Gorgeous pure white fish with black spots and a distinctive “hump” on the head, leading to a popular common name, “Humpback Grouper”.	75 cm (29.5 in)
Painted comber		Serranus scriba	No	Easy to Moderate	Large fish with classic Bass body, Silvery in colour with vertical tan stripes and a blue underside.	36 cm (14.2 i n)
Polleni grouper		Cephalopholis polleni	No	Moderate		43 cm (16.9 in)
Red flag grouper		Cephalopholis urodeta	No	Moderate	Very similar to C. miniatus, but the caudal fin is dark.	28 cm (11.0 in)
Lyretail grouper		Variola louti	No	Moderate	Silver back changing to red around the underside, darkening toward the caudal fin, which is lyre-shaped with neon green edging.	80 cm (31.5 in)
Saddle grouper		Plectropomus laevis	No	Easy		125 cm (49.2 in)
Spotted grouper		Epinephelus summana	No	Moderate	Dark black fish with many light green spots all over body, increasing in number toward the posterior.	52 cm (20.5 in)
Strawberry grouper		Cephalopholis spiloparaea	No	Moderate		30 cm (11.8 in)
V tail grouper		Cephalopholis urodelus	No	Easy-Moderate		28 cm (11.0 in)

Basslets and Assessors are small, long bodied fish strongly resembling Anthias. Their care requirements, however, are closer to those of damsels. They should be kept individually, and generally not with other fish of similar shape and colour. Feeding is easy: they will generally eat any meaty foods offered. Good water quality should be maintained at all times.^[43]

Image	Description
Black cap gramma		Gramma melacara	Yes	Moderate	Purple with a black mask beginning at the mouth and ending at the base of the dorsal fin.	6 cm (2.4 in)
Blue assesor		Assessor macneilli	Yes	Easy to Moderate	Entirely navy blue with white edging of the dorsal fin.	7 cm (2.8 in)
Royal gramma		Gramma loreto	Yes	Easy to Moderate	Purple head and anterior, abruptly changing to yellow about halfway down the body. Has black marking through eye and another on the dorsal fin. Do not confuse with the Brazilian Gramma or the Bicolor Dottyback.	5 cm (2.0 in)
Brazilian gramma		Gramma brasiliensis	Yes	Easy to Moderate	Very similar to the royal gramma, however the change from purple to yellow occurs farther down the body and the black markings are absent.	6 cm (2.4 in)
Yellow assessor		Assessor flavissimus	Yes	Easy to Moderate	Bright lemon yellow with peach fringing of the dorsal fin and around the eye.	7 cm (2.8 in)[44]

Batfish are gorgeous and striking fish that are not common in aquaria for one major reason: they get huge. A two or three hundred gallon tank is needed for one, minimum, and larger is better. They start out as tiny, manageable-looking cuties, which often fools aquarists into purchasing them for their small aquariums. However they quickly grow to gargantuan proportions, and require large amounts of food as well as space, so beware. They are not reef safe and should be fed plenty of large meaty foods. Batfish change greatly as they grow, however the potential aquarist is most likely to see them in their juvenile form, so that is the description of the colouration here. They all have generally the same body shape: disk-like with tall dorsal and anal fins, similar to a Freshwater Angelfish.

Image	Description
Orbiculate batfish		Platax orbicularis	No	Difficult	Brown with generally random black markings resembling a rotting leaf.	50 cm (19.7 in)
Dusky batfish		Platax pinnatus	No	Difficult	Dark black body completely edged by distinctive yellow and orange.	45 cm (17.7 in)
Teira batfish		Platax teira	No	Difficult	Silver with black fins and a black stripe across the face.	70 cm (27.6 in)

Blennies are popular aquarium fish, and for good reason. They are peaceful, colorful, and many are downright helpful. For example, the aptly named Lawnmower Blenny will keep your green algae well trimmed and presentable. With the exception of Fang Blennies, Blennies are totally reef safe- in fact a reef environment is really best for them because they can be shy and the intricate rockwork of a reef provides ample hiding spaces. They are omnivores and should be fed a varied diet of frozen or live foods and plant matter. Blennies do not have teeth or functional jaw, so food must be small enough for them to swallow whole.
Blennies are often confused with Gobies, but there is an easy way to tell the difference. Gobies have two distinct dorsal fins, Blennies have a single dorsal fin that runs the length of their body. Also, Gobies‘ pelvic fins are fused to form a sucker, similar to Remoras.^[45]

Members of the family Tetraodontidae, Boxfish, Blowfish or Pufferfish and their cousins Cowfishes and Porcupinefishes can be very personable and quirky pets, for the prepared.
They are not thought of as an ordinary aquarium tank mate, but are quickly gaining popularity. They do pose a hazard in the community tank however. They are capable of releasing a very powerful toxin which can kill other fish and in some cases, the boxfish itself. They generally only use it when threatened or dying, but can become disturbed easily with aggressive tank mates or overcrowded aquarium. Generally they are reef safe, though they will pick at invertebrates if not fed well enough.
Many people think puffed up Pufferfish, like in the picture, are cute, but an owner should never subject their pet to this as they are often unable to expel the air should they be out of the water. To prevent this, never remove a puffer from the water.^[46]

Butterflyfish, when properly cared for, can make beautiful and distinctive additions to fish only marine aquariums. Often large and usually not suited for those with smaller aquariums, nor those of the faint of heart. Nevertheless, when fed a varied diet and kept in pristine conditions, Butterflyfish will usually thrive. That is, if you choose the right species. With Butterflyfish, usually a fish is going to survive, or it’s not. Many species simply cannot be kept in captivity, and potential keepers must take care to only purchase those species that have a fighting chance. Also, be very picky about which specimen you choose- any sign of mishandling should be taken as a red flag.
The following species are relatively hardy and an experienced aquarist should have no trouble with them, so long as they are diligent.^[47]

Image	Description
Copperbanded butterflyfish		Chelmon rostratus	Caution	Difficult	Silver with black edged gold stripes, a long nose, and a black eyespot on the dorsal fin.	20 cm (7.9 in)
Schooling bannerfish		Heniochus diphreutes	No	Moderate	Sometimes referred to as the “Poor Man’s Moorish Idol” because of the resemblance. White and black striped with yellow caudal fin and a dorsal fin that forms a long, thin banner.	21 cm (8.3 in)
Longnose butterflyfish		Forcipiger flavissimus	No	Moderate	From the pectoral fins forward, black above the eye and silver below, with an exceptionally mouth. Past the pectoral fins, bright yellow with an eyespot on the anal fin.	22 cm (8.7 in)
Raccoon butterflyfish		Chaetodon lunula	No	Moderate	Very distinctive and complexly colored. Is mostly yellow with a darker saddle and a black and white mask.	20 cm (7.9 in)
Redback butterflyfish		Chaetodon paucifasciatus	No	Moderate	White with black stripes that form chevrons on the side and a bright red patch on the posterior.	14 cm (5.5 in)
Merten’s butterflyfish		Chaetodon mertensii	No	Moderate	White with fuzzy black stripes and a yellow posterior. Also has a black line through the eye.	12.5 cm (4.9 in)
Teardrop butterflyfish		Chaetodon unimaculatus	No	Moderate	Completely yellow with the exception of black stripes at the base of the caudal fin and through the eye, and an eyespot directly below the dorsal fin.	20 cm (7.9 in)
Latticed butterflyfish		Chaetodon rafflesii	No	Moderate	Very similar to C. unimaculatus, but with scales that are brighter than the body, forming a lattice-like pattern, and lacking the eyespot.	18 cm (7.1 in)
Pacific double saddle butterflyfish		Chaetodon ulietensis	No	Moderate	Silver with two dark saddles over the body (plus a dark mask) and yellow dorsal and caudal fins.	15 cm (5.9 in)
Sickle butterflyfish		Chaetodon falcula	No	Moderate	Often confused with C. ulietensis, but easily distinguished. The saddles are wedge shaped rather than stripes and do not reach the underside. Overall more yellow coloring.	20 cm (7.9 in)
Threadfin butterflyfish		Chaetodon auriga	No	Moderate	White anterior with thin black stripes at 45 and 120 degree angles from the head. Posterior is yellow, but with a black wedge shape where the stripes meet the yellow coloring.	23 cm (9.1 in)
Tinker’s butterflyfish		Chaetodon tinkeri	No	Moderate	White with small black spots, a yellow mask, and a black dorsal fin.	15 cm (5.9 in)
Masked butterflyfish		Chaetodon semilarvatus	No	Moderate	Bright lemon yellow with subtle vertical orange stripes and a black splotch behind the eye.	23 cm (9.1 in)

One of the few groups of shoaling fish commonly available to marine aquarists, Cardinalfish are nocturnal and tend to be quite shy. They require meaty foods and will often not take prepared foods such as flakes and tablets. For the best chance of success, keep a wide variety of frozen foods on hand. In the event of a hunger strike, they will almost always take adult brine shrimp. As far as other care requirements they are similar to damsels: not picky. So long as they are properly acclimated, they tolerate a wide range of parameters. A marine aqaurist should watch the ammonia/nitrite levels of the environment, as cardinalfish are particularly sensitive to these chemicals.^[48]

Image	Description
Fragile cardinalfish		Apogon fragilis	Yes[49]:133	Moderate[49]:133		5 cm (2.0 in)
Banggai cardinal		Pterapogon kauderni	Yes	Moderate	Black and silver striped with very tall fins and many white spots. Wild populations have been decimated, consider captive bred specimens.	8 cm (3.1 in)
Blackstripe cardinalfish		Apogon nigrofasciatus	Yes	Moderate	Body completely covered in horizontal yellow and black stripes, with red fins.	10 cm (3.9 in)
Bluebarred cardinalfish		Apogon flores	Yes[49]:133	Moderate[49]:133		5 cm (2.0 in)
Bluestreak cardinalfish		Apogon leptacanthus	Yes[49]:133	Moderate[49]:133		6.5 cm (2.6 in)
Flamefish		Apogon maculatus	Yes	Moderate	Bright red with black spots at the base of the caudal fin, under the second dorsal fin, and on the operculum.	11 cm (4.3 in)
Frostfin cardinalfish		Apogon hoeveni	Yes[49]:133	Moderate[49]:133		5 cm (2.0 in)
Gilbert’s cardinalfish		Apogon gilberti	Yes[49]:133	Moderate[49]:133		5 cm (2.0 in)
Girdled cardinalfish		Archamia zosterophora	Yes[49]:133	Moderate[49]:133		8 cm (3.1 in)
Orange-striped cardinalfish		Apogon cyanosoma	Yes	Moderate	Light yellow with iridescent yellow horizontal stripes.	8 cm (3.1 in)
Pajama cardinalfish		Sphaeramia nematoptera	Yes, caution with small shrimp[49]:132	Easy[49]:132	This fish displays three distinct color bands: the first, stretching from the nose to base of the first dorsal fin, is a tannish peach. The second, a thin band which runs down the center of the fish, is chocolate brown, and the posterior of the fish is white with brown spots.	8.5 cm (3.3 in)
Ochre-striped cardinalfish		Apogon compressus	Yes	Moderate	Almost identical to A. nigrofasticus, but with blue eyes.	12 cm (4.7 in)
Ringtailed cardinalfish		Apogon aureus	Yes	Moderate	Yellow body with a black stripe (ring) at the base of the caudal fin and iridescent blue streaks across the eye.	14.5 cm (5.7 in)

Chromis are perhaps the ultimate reef fish. Generally peaceful, most species are easy to take care of and quite colorful. Like anthias, they will school, but in many cases this tendency disappears as they age. They are, nevertheless, at least ambivalent with their own species, as well as completely reef safe. Like Damsels and Anemonefish, their close cousins, Chromis are omnivores and will accept most foods offered. A flake staple is usually sufficient, but for best color and health supplement with frozen and live foods when possible.^[50]

Clownfish, more technically known as Anemonefish, are the classic aquarium fish. Both hardy and attractive, they are perhaps best known for their symbiotic relationship with Sea Anemones, a relative of coral. In the wild, Anemonefish are always found with a host, leading many potential keepers to believe that an anemone is necessary to keep them. Anemonefish are easy to keep, but their cnidarian counterparts are inordinately finicky and need high light levels, and luckily Anemonefish will thrive without them. Aquarists often find that Anemonefish will host in other things, from corals and Feather Duster Worms to powerheads and other equipment. Anemonefish care is identical to that of Damselfish, as they are actually very closely related.^[51][52]

All Damselfish can be considered reef-safe, sometimes excluding larger, more aggressive Dascyllus varieties. Some Damselfish will host in anemones like clownfish. Most Damselfish are aggressive and difficult to catch once you put them in an aquarium.
Damselfish change gender as they grow larger and older. Small damselfish are ungendered. Eventually, they become males if no males prevent them from doing so. 1 or sometimes 2 males live with a female and guard over the eggs. Females are the largest fish and dominant over the males and juveniles. They will not allow other females into an area they have claimed as their territory without a fight. They may not allow new males or juveniles, either. Aggression increases with each change.^[51][53][54]

Most should be kept as pairs or small groups where all individuals are added at once.^[55][56]

Dragonets are often mis-categorized as gobies or blennies by fish sellers. They are bottom-dwelling fish that constantly hunt tiny invertebrates for food. Most starve to death in a marine aquarium unless you provide a refugium or place for the invertebrates to reproduce safely without any fish being able to reach them.^[57][58]

Image	Description
Mandarinfish		Synchiropus splendidus	Yes	Difficult; attach a refugium to the tank	A brightly colored member of the dragonet family. Eats only copepods and will die in captivity without an adequate supply, which can only be had in very large, well established reef tanks	6 cm (2.4 in)[59]
Red scooter blenny		Synchiropus stellatus	Yes	Moderate; attach a refugium to the tank	Not a true blenny. Often only eats live copepods and amphipods.	12 cm (4.7 in)
Ocellated Dragonet		Synchiropus ocellatus	Yes	Moderate; attach a refugium to the tank	Also known as Scooter Blenny though not a true blenny. Will often only eats live copepods and amphipods.	8 cm (3.1 in)
Spotted mandarin		Synchiropus picturatus	Yes	Difficult; attach a refugium to the tank	Often only eats live copepods and amphipods.	10 cm (3.9 in)

Most eels are easily kept in a large aquarium, although several species such as the blue ribbon eel should usually be avoided. With any moray eel care must be taken to secure the lid as one of the most common causes of death is escaping from the tank, and onto the floor.^[60][61]

Image	Description
Banded snake eel		Myrichthys colubrinus	No	Easy		97 cm (38.2 in)
Banded eel		Echidna polyzona	No	Intermediate		69 cm (27.2 in)
Black edge moray eel		Gymnothorax saxicola	No	Moderate		60 cm (23.6 in)
Blue ribbon eel, black ribbon eel		Rhinomuraena quaesita	No	Difficult		130 cm (51.2 in)
Chainlink moray eel		Echidna catenata	No	Easy	Can be kept with fish too small to swallow	165 cm (65.0 in)
Dragon moray eel		Enchelycore pardalis	No	Easy	A fish eater that will eat anything it can fit in its mouth. When available is typically quite expensive[62]	92 cm (36.2 in)
Golden dwarf eel		Gymnothorax melatremus	Yes	Moderate	Rarely available, among the smallest of the moray eels	26 cm (10.2 in)
Golden moray eel		Gymnothorax miliaris	May eat fish and shrimp	Easy to moderate	These fish should only be kept in fish-only tanks as any small invertebrates will be looked on as food. Keep with fish large enough not to be eaten. Feed on a diet of whitefish, cockles, cod roe, haddock and frozen foods.	70.0 cm (27.6 in)
Green moray eel		Gymnothorax funebris	No	Difficult	Requires a 180 gallon tank with tight fitting lid. Compatible with rays, sharks, and other large fish.	250 cm (98.4 in)
Jeweled moray eel		Muraena lentiginosa	No	Easy		61 cm (24.0 in)
Kidako moray eel		Gymnothorax kidako	No	Easy		91 cm (35.8 in)
Peppered moray		Gymnothorax picta	No	Moderate		135 cm (53.1 in)
Snowflake eel		Echidna nebulosa	May eat shrimp if underfed	Easy	A pebble-tooth moray that generally eats crustaceans and similar. Safer in reef aquariums than other species but be prepared to remove it in case it starts to eat desired invetebrates.	100 cm (39.4 in)
Spotted garden-eel		Taenioconger hassi	With Caution	Difficult	Rarely available, best avoided by inexperienced aquarists	40 cm (15.7 in)
Spotted Snake eel		Myrichthys maculosus	No	Moderate	Requires at least six in of substrate	100 cm (39.4 in)
Tessalata eel, or laced moray		Gymnothorax favagineus	No	Easy		300 cm (118.1 in)
Yellowhead moray eel		Gymnothorax fimbriatus	No	Easy		80 cm (31.5 in)
Yellow mouth moray eel		Gymnothorax nudivomer	No	Intermediate		178 cm (70.1 in)
Whitemouth moray eel		Gymnothorax meleagris	With Caution	Intermediate		120 cm (47.2 in)
Carpet eel-blenny		Congrogadus subducens	No	Easy	Actually a Dottyback, but has the body shape of an eel.	45 cm (17.7 in)
Zebra moray		Gymnomuraena zebra	No	Easy	One of the easier moray eels to keep, is usually safe with most fish but will eat most invertebrates.	150 cm (59.1 in)

Less often kept than their relatives the Triggerfish and Puffers there are many filefish that make good aquarium residents, and a few that require specialized diets making it hard to sustain them in an aquarium.^[63][64] See Rabbitfish

A type of Anglerfish, Frogfish are ambush predators with huge mouths. They are capable of eating fish up to twice their length so care should be taken in choos
ing tank mates.^[65]

While not as common a choice for aquariums as many other species, they are typically hardy and brightly colored^[66] Typically are hardy and do not harm invertebrates which makes them a good choice of fish for a reef tank.^[67][68]

Attractive and relatively small, Hawkfish make excellent additions to fish only or FOWLR aquariums. With extreme caution taken, they could be kept in reef aquariums, but because of their propensity to eat small ornamental shrimps and other mobile invertebrates (usually leaving sessile invertebrates alone) they are not considered reef safe. Lacking a swim bladder, Hawkfish can often be found resting in crevices of rocks or among the branches of corals or gorgonians. Hawkfish are easy to care for and not picky at all about water quality. A varied diet, including spirulina and small meaty foods like Mysis is recommended.^[69]

Jawfish are burrowers and require a sandy substrate of sufficient depth.^[70]

Image	Description
Black cap jawfish		Opistognathus lonchurus	Almost always	Moderate	Requires a 30 gallon tank and 3 inches (7.6 cm) substrate. Tank should remain tightly lidded. May eat small shrimp.	10 cm (3.9 in)
Blue dot jawfish		Opistognathus rosenblatti	Yes	Moderate		9 cm (3.5 in)
Dusky jawfish		Opistognathus whitehurstii	Yes	Moderate	Requires a 30 gallon tank and 3 inches (7.6 cm) sand substrate. Tank should remain tightly lidded.	14 cm (5.5 in)
Yellowhead jawfish		Opistognathus aurifrons	Yes	Moderate	Requires a 30 gallon tank and 5–7 inches (13–18 cm) soft substrate. Tank should remain tightly lidded.	10 cm (3.9 in)

“Lionfish” specifically refer to the genus Pterois within the family Scorpaenidae. They have venomous spines and should be treated with caution.^[71] Other species within Scorpaenidae but outside Pterois may also have “lionfish” in their common names.

Pipefish are relatives of seahorses and require a similar level of care. They should only be bought by experienced aquarium owners. Captive bred specimens are sometimes available, and are significantly more likely to survive.^[73]

Usually only a single specimen can be kept in an aquarium. Sometimes multiple specimens can be kept in larger aquariums, but usually this requires them to be added at the same time or they will be too territorial.^[74]

Less commonly kept than some other species, many still make hardy and colorful aquarium residents.^[75][76]

All rays have a poisonous spine near the base of the tail. Care must be taken to avoid this animal when performing tank maintenance and during capture.

Image	Description
Fiddler stingray		Trygonorhina fasciata	No	Expert	Requires a minimum 360 gallon aquarium with a 1 meter width and a fine grained substrate. Coarse substrates may damage the underside of this animal, causing infection.
Manta ray		Manta birostris	No	Expert	Requires a minimum 6.2 million gallon aquarium.
Round stingray		Urobatis halleri	No	Expert	Requires a minimum 180 gallon aquarium and a fine grained substrate. Coarse substrates may damage the underside of this animal, causing infection.	31 cm (12.2 in)
Spotted caribbean stingray		Urolophus spp.	No	Expert	Requires a minimum 180 gallon aquarium and a fine grained substrate. Coarse substrates may damage the underside of this animal, causing infection.
Thornback stingray		Platyrhinoidis triseriata	No	Expert	Requires a minimum 360 gallon aquarium with a 1 meter width

Because they are relatively inactive fish, most species can be kept in smaller aquariums than other equally large fish, and 30 gallon tanks are not unusual. Because they are capable of eating fish that are surprisingly large, but will often be picked at by fish that eat invertebrates a species tank is often set up for them. Some fish will never accept anything but live food, typically these specimens are fed on gut packed guppies, mollies, or ghost shrimp. Similarly to the lionfish, care should be taken when handling these fish as they are also venomous.
^[78][79]

It takes a special aquarist to maintain these delicate beauties. A potential keeper must be dedicated and willing to throw artistic creativity to the winds- as what seahorses need is not always beautiful. They require taller tanks, live/frozen food, and many hitching posts, as well as very peaceful tankmates. In fact, beginners would be well-advised not to mix seahorses with any other species until they have more experience.
Seahorses found in stores are generally Captive Bred, but occasionally one might find a wild caught (WC) specimen. WC Seahorses should only be purchased by seahorse experts who are going to breed them, as they tend to be finicky and most are endangered in the wild.
One of the advantages of Seahorses is that many species stay small and can (in fact, some should) be kept in smaller tanks, making them ideal for aquarists who are pressed for space or money.^[82][83]
Seahorses are among the few popular marine aquarium species that can be temperate. Species vary in their temperature requirement, so here an extra category has been added.
TR=Tropical ST=Sub-Tropical TM=Temperate

Typically are hardy fish that can be kept with a wide variety of tankmates.^[84][85]

Will outgrow most home aquariums.^[86][87]

Tangs generally feed on algae, though there are a few carnivorous species. Most tangs will not tolerate other fish the same color and/or shape as them. They have a spine on their tails that can cut open other fish and unprotected hands. All tangs should be given plenty of swimming room; try to have at least a 4′ tank. Contrary to popular belief they will tolerate smaller (4′ to 5′) tanks just fine but tend to live better in larger tanks, over 5′.^[89] Though often categorized as gobies, tilefish are a separate species.^[92][93]

While they are generally considered monsters that will chomp invertebrates, a few species can make great reef fish. Other more aggressive species such as the Undulated Trigger, and Clown Trigger will sometimes be so aggressive that it is necessary to keep as the sole inhabitant of the aquarium. All will require large tanks, with good filtration.^[94][95][96]

A diverse group of fish with an equally wide range of characteristics. Some wrasse species are aggressive towards small fish and invertebrates, others are reef safe. Some are quite hardy, some typically die within weeks.^[98][99]

See also

References